Terranova Expedition: Potosi Mine

We've been in Potosi now for a few days and knew we had to visit the Potosi mine, sometimes refered to as "the most dangerous mine in the world"

To say it is a fascinating place is an understatement.

First some facts:

1. The mine opened in 1542, almost 470 years ago.

2. It was the principal source of wealth for the entire Spanish Empire.

3. The town of Potosi grew to 200,000 residents, making it one of the largest, and wealthiest cities in the world at the time.

4. The miners worship "El Tio" (the Devil) in the mine

5. Miners contract silicosis of the lungs within 7 to 10 years

6. Average age of death of a miner in Potosi is 35-40 years.

7. The silver in the mine played out in the 1700's.

8. After the silver was gone, they mined Tin.

9. Miners today are mostly looking for Zinc and Lead.

10. The labyrinth of tunnels has over 500 entrances

11. At 4800 meters, the mountain is now 300 meters shorter than in the 1700's

12. The miners work at over 4300 meters, in up to 42 degree celsius heat.

13. The miners are paid 10 Bolivianos per 2 ton cartload of ore.

14. The average miner can make 70-100 Bolivianos per day (about $10-$15 dollars)

15. Over 9000 people work in the mine daily (today)

16. Of the 9000 people working, approximately 1000 are below the age of 14

17. Miners stuff their cheek with wads of cocoa leaves to diminish hunger and provide energy.

18. Women are not allowed to be minters, but can enter the mine (tourists and guides)
19. The mining is manual, and hasn't significantly changed since the time of the conquistadors.

It is estimated that in the 470 years the mine has been open, over 8 million people have died from accidents, cave ins, silicosis, and cancer.

We started our tour by bus, which took us towards the mountain. The entire area looks like it has been dug up and stripped bare. Women from the town sift through the tailings, looking for bits of minerals they can sell.

The ground is covered in rubbish, the water in the creek runs a reddy brown. We walk up to a lookout where we are given a short speech on the history of the mine. Even walking up a short hill leave us breathless, as we are at 4500 meters (over 14,700 feet)

We are gathered at one of the 500 entrances, the ground is covered with muddy water. Our guide tells us there are no maps to the tunnels, but she knows the way.

Our ask our guide her age. She's 28. She looks 40. She's about 5 feet tall. Helpful in the cramped mine tunnels.

We enter the tunnel, which at first is cool and the air is clear. As we descend deeper, the dust starts to be visible in our headlamps. We start to cough. It gets a little warmer.

The tunnel is sometimes wet, sometimes dry. The shoring in the roof is haphazard and 400 years old. Sometimes the beams are broken from the strain of holding the mountain above.

We see debris and abandoned mining gear. Sulphur oozes from the walls. We reach an alcove and see a shrine to El Tio, the devil.

Further in, the air thickens with dust, and the heat rises. We are about 1km into the mountain.

We come across our first miners, cheeks stuffed with cocoa leaves. We give them presents we were instructed to buy back in town… water, cigarettes, dynamite, and cocoa leaves.

They continue to shovel ore as we snap a few pictures. We keep walking deeper into the heart of the mountain.

Here the air is thick with dust, the heat is heavy. We see more miners, working continuously shovelling ore into baskets. Each basket weighs 550 lbs. Two men carry it.

We finally stop. The air is thick with dust, the heat is suffocating. We turn around, but the tunnel continues on into the blackness, deeper into the mountain where the miners toil.

We begin our journey back out. it takes 45 minutes, walking hunched over in the cramped tunnel, as the air slowly clears, and the heat recedes.

As we come out into daylight, I feel relief. 2 hours in the mine is almost more than I could take. The miners work 8-12 hours shifts, day after day, week after week, month after month, for years, until they die, choking.

The Potosi Mine is hell on earth.