Katuwira, Peru

After our aborted attempt to leave Vilcabamba, we finally managed to take the right road, and made it the 100 or so Kilometres to the Peru Border.   

Once there, we had easily the smoothest border crossing of all time.  Even though this is the main border along the Pan American highway, it seems to be mostly a lazy place, with locals hanging out sitting on chairs watching the world go by.  The border itself is across a bridge.  We were met by an official on the Ecuador side who took our bike documents with a smile and a wave.   We then went in to the Passport office and got stamped out in about 10 seconds.

On o the Peru side, a couple old timers in chairs immediately pointed us to the Customs office.  We presented our paperwork which they entered into a computer and printed off or official import document.   We were out of there in about 10 minutes.  Passport control was equally efficient, at about 1 minute more.  

We kept looking around for the big line, or another building to go to, but we were through and done in about 5 minutes.  

We changed over the last of our US dollars (Ecuador uses the US dollar) to Peruvian currency, got on our bikes and entered Peru.

As we rode towards the coast, the mountains gradually levelled out and the excellent highway became less winding.  For the first time in many months, we encountered long, straight stretches of road.  It felt good to let the bike loose again.

The landscape changed as well, as we came out of the jungle and into the desert of Northern Peru.  Lush green canopies were replaced by miles and miles of sand.  Large dunes dotted the horizon and threatened to overtake the road in some spots.  

We had hoped to reach Chiclayo, but knew starting out that the 500km we had to ride was a long way.  As the kilometres disappeared beneath our tires, the wind got worse and we found ourselves riding on an angle to try and keep the bikes upright.  Troy took the brunt  of the wind on his much smaller bike with a small windscreen, and by 6:00 pm he was beaten and tired from fighting through the gusts all day.

We had made good time however, and pulled into Chiclayo just as the sun had set.  We quickly found a taxi who would take us inland for 30 nuevo sol (about $10.00) and help us find our destination, which was Pimentel, and the Katuwira Camp we had read about in our Lonely Planet book.

We followed the lonely Taxi through the darkened streets and into the country.   After about 20 minutes down a lonely dark road, we came to the Ocean and turned and started riding down the beach.   There were no lights save for the lonely one on top of the cab, which we followed along behind.  

In the distance, we finally saw a couple lights, which brightened and resolved into the 3 lit pyramids of Katuwira surrounded by various other hand built, bamboo buildings.

As Troy is fond to say, we've "rocked up" to an interesting place.

The three pyramids are guest houses, with a  living room, bathroom/bedrooms on the ground floor, and a loft bedroom upstairs.  They are made of bamboo and covered in plaster.  They are rustic and quite well made.  

  

The place has an amazing feel.  Part desolation, part oasis, it is obvious that a lot of work has gone into creating the various buildings.  What is also obvious is that it hasn't been as successful as they had likely hoped.  Save for one local in a tent, and another local couple, we are the only guests.     A lot of the back building are in a general state of disrepair, and look abandoned.   The three pyramids out front however, are in decent shape, and were a great place to stay.   We hoped that it was the down season, and business will pick up soon, as the owners and staff are fantastic people.

The area around the pyramids has a very post apocalyptic feel too it.    Other than the mist shrouded ocean on one side, it is nothing but desolate sand.

This hasn't stopped the owners, Mario and his great staff, from treating us amazingly well.  Mario is a trained chef, and starting with our first meal here, has absolutely blown us away with his cooking.    Even though my meals are quite simple, that hasn't stooped Mario and the guys from making an effort to present the food in the most agreeable ways. 

Troys meals have been works of art, and delicious as well.

On the road to Chiclayo, Peru.  Other than the wind, it was nice to get out of the winding mountain roads that have been our home for the last few months.

The road here runs straight and true through the desert

Stopping for Gas.  The price of Fuel in Peru is about twice that of Ecuador.

Our pyramid home.

The restaurant across the sand from the pyramid complex.  Made entirely of bamboo.

Full moon tonight.

My supper.  Notice the presentation of basically meat, potatoes, rice and vegetables.  Awesome!

Troy with his amazing dinner that Mario prepared.  He ate the whole thing!

Some of the "stuff" around the pyramids.

The view looking back.  (The ocean is behind me)

One of our local friends.  Very friendly and hospitable.

Sunset at Katuwira in Peru.